Monday, December 15, 2014

Gaanatlos Ruben Tkeshelashvili!

Ruben Tkeshelashvili
Some knew him as "The General," others, simply as Ruben.  He was a qvevri wine maker in Racha, a mountainous region in the Republic of Georgia known for a semi-sweet red wine called Khvanchara. Local legend says that Stalin was a fan of his wine. We were visiting Iago's Winery last weekend when I happened to mention to my friend Irakli that he really needed to pay a visit to Ruben before he died. Iago told us he had died two days previous.  I think he was a national treasure.  I had the honor of visiting his marani last October with my Rachan guide Natia and my friend Nicoletta.  I went to Racha to lean how to make a bean pastry called lobiani, but I was also on a mission to meet Ruben.  We visited him unannounced one morning and he was there, in his camouflaged glory, grumbling to himself about the inconvenience.  A grumpy, opinionated old man whose eyes sparkled with the joy of living.
He was alone now, but he spoke proudly of his highly educated granddaughter who spoke perfect English.  His qvevri were buried under about a foot of mud. He placed some snacks on a table in his marani and then went to work to open one for us with the help of local young vigneron, Aleco Sardanashvili.  They poured the luscious and precious wine into a doki, with small glasses that resembled Turkish tea glasses, we toasted to our health, to Georgia, to our families and many other ideas and things.  Natia informed me we had to toast and accept the wine and to drink it with him or we would be breaking all the laws of hospitality.  By about 11am, I was completely inebriated.  He poured another doki, and we, his guests, had to toast.  Passing the toasting to another person in Georgian is called, Alaverdi (like the wine making monastery in Kakheti). 
In short, it was a moment in my life that I will never forget. Visiting an old man in his 80s, who was still making traditional qvevri wine and honoring the ancient codes of Georgian hospitality-whose eyes had seen many changes in the world and who remained steadfast,-was an honor.  As the Georgians say- he has moved on.  The world will never have another like him. I am consoled knowing that there are young vignerons like Aleco Sardanashvili who continue this tradition in Racha.

Thank you to Natia for organizing this visit for me.  It was a huge honor.

GAANATLOS RUBEN!  May you rest in peace!

Thursday, December 11, 2014

Impossible Valais with José Vouillamoz.

Have you ever been to an event, where you had no idea why you were there, or why you were invited? One where you look around at the people and the atmosphere, and you think to yourself, “I am out of my league here.” This happened to me a few weeks ago. It was one of the most unique and riveting tastings of my wine career, with people I liked and admired, that was led and organized by one of the world's leading ampelologists and wine sleuths; the highly celebrated co-author of Wine Grapes, José Vouillamoz. He called it Impossible Valais and said it was the most exciting tasting he had ever organized. Whether I was worthy, I’m still unsure, but I was an interested student ready to soak up any and all information to the best of my ability.
José Vouillamoz is the ultimate wine geek, in the best sense of the term. A botanist trained in grape genetics, he is a champion of rare grape varieties, and willing to get his hands dirty in order to recover them from near extinction. His knowledge is encyclopedic, and he is akin to a treasure hunter when it comes to wines and wine grapes. He searches for lost grapes and supports the vignerons who preserve them. He wears obscure band t-shirts, has a dry sense of humor, he's humble and one of my favorite people to taste wine with. He's the one at the party with the conversation piece; you just know he'll have the strangest and most interesting bottle of wine in a room full of wine geeks. It is a privilege to taste with him. He has an acute sense of smell and taste with fantastic anecdotal descriptors. At his “Rare Swiss Wines” seminar at the Digital Wine CommunicationsConference, he described the bitter quality of one of the wines as the taste you have in your mouth when you are watching TV with a bowl of cherries but are too lazy to get up to throw away the pit so you roll it around on your tongue, that kind of bitter. He is truly a man of class and wit.
He's true to his craft, he's a scientist, and his opinions are backed up by inarguable facts, but he's also hilarious and is never short on great one-liners. With a witty tongue quicker than John Wayne's trigger finger, he’s a breath of fresh air in the frequently stuffy and rigid wine community. When you are with him in a social setting, or at a tasting, you wish you'd brought an audio recorder to capture all his José-isms, (my term, I want to write a book based on these).
We need him. The world's best wine professionals descended on Montreux for the DWCC for a weekend of learning, and we can thank José Vouillamoz and his mission to put Swiss Wines on the map for schooling us all in their virtue and rarity. Thanks to José many of us look at Swiss wine through a new lens. 12 lucky participants had the opportunity to travel through his motherland for three days with him, tasting some of the best and rarest wines of Switzerland, beginning with the Impossible Valais tasting at Sensorama at Châteaude Villa in Sierre.
Though we'd all had ample opportunity to taste a multitude of Swiss wines over the weekend, I don't believe any of us were emotionally prepared for the once-in-a-lifetime tasting that José called
Impossible Valais. He explained that “impossible” referred to the rarity of the wines we'd taste. The wines bordered on the sublime, ranging from rare and “archaeological” grapes to the truly perfect 1971 Petite Arvine. Le Valais produces some of the most incredible wines I have ever tasted, but before the conference in Montreux and this trip, the only Swiss wine I ever had was young Fendant. I have since learned that Fendant/Chasselas should be considered a very serious wine. Yet, it is virtually impossible to find these gems outside of Switzerland. They export only 2% of the wines they produce and produce 0.2% of the world's wine so it is no surprise that many people have no idea that Swiss wine even exists. The standing joke is that they export so little of their wine because it is so good that they (the Swiss) drink them all before the rest of the world has a chance.
I never knew that there was so much diversity, that white Swiss wines can age, and well. There is certainly nothing more educational than guided tastings and full immersion in a wine region. Now, after seeing the heroic vineyards and tasting the wines crafted by generous people, I am converted. Swiss wines verge on the magical, they are spirited and convey the essence of the land and people. Well crafted and generous. I hope that we will see more of these wines in the international market, without compromising their spirit. The wines we tasted at the Impossible Valais tasting were thoughtful, rare and the beginning of a very emotional wine love story.

The wines

Wine: Plantscher
Producer: Chanton Kellerei
Grape: Gros Bourgogne
Vintage: 2007
Notes: Gros Bourgogne is indeed a rare grape, there are only .05 ha and only one producer, Chanton, who are at the center of rare grape preservation in Valais. Lovely golden yellow color with notes of apples, apricots, honey and chamomile. Fresh, dry and with a silky texture.

Wine: Arvine Primus Classicus
Producer: Orsat
Grape: Petite Arvine
Vintage: 1988
Notes: 1988 was an interesting vintage because it was raining during the harvest. The skins broke and thus created very unique and gorgeous wines. It was a complex wine. Green apples, mint, passion fruit, melon and chamomile. I fell in love with this wine because it had a hint of wild fermentation flavor which recalled kombucha tea or sauerkraut, lots of citrus and a very persistent finish. It was lovely and racy. Un vino importante.

Wine: Arvine
Producer: Provins
Grape: Petite Arvine
Vintage: 1971
Notes: Exquisite wine that was everything about autumn poured into a glass. Marmalade, leaves, chestnuts, pumpkins, citrus along with figs, dates, quince and fermenting cheese. This was an extremely complex bouquet that I wanted to come back to. Despite its 43 years of age it was fresh and well balanced with the acid matched with an oily texture.

Wine: Amigne
Producer: Provins
Grape: Amigne
Vintage: 1967
Notes: Amigne is an autochthonous grape from the Valais, there are 42 ha in the world and they are mostly near the town of Vétroz. I have to admit that I fell in love with this grape over the course of the conference and then this tasting. I find it quite exotic even when young. The 1967 was very pleasant and reminded me of distant lands. Candied fruit, Turkish delight, rose water,
tarocco oranges, chestnuts and dates. It was pleasantly dry despite such sweet notes.

Wine: Johannisberg St-Théodule
Producer: Orsat
Grape: Silvaner
Vintage: 1955
Notes: 1955 is considered the vintage of the century in Switzerland. Orange peel, lilies, honey and baby powder. Extremely fresh and vibrant with long persistent citrus taste.

Wine: Rouge de Pays
Producer: Stéfano Délitroz
Grape: Rouge de Pays
Vintage: 2011
Notes: This is made from grapes from 80-year-old ungrafted vines that are erroneously called Cornalin in Switzerland. It was very “meaty” with a hint of chinotto, with lots of briny notes, like olives, which was reflected on the palate along with red berries. Rich tannins and full body with a persistent finish. A well balanced and meaty wine. I would like to taste it in about 10 years.

Wine: Côte Rotie La Torque
Producer: Guigal
Grape: Syrah
Vintage: 2001
Notes: We tasted two Syrahs blindly, one French and one Swiss All we knew going it was that one was French and one was Swiss. This one was more impressive for me but I think it was context. We had just tasted some serious wines, and I think my palate was much more responsive to this richer tasting wine at the time. Rich nose of berries, fennel pollen, licorice, anise, wet stones, balsamic notes and pepper. On the palate it was juicy with really immense tannins. Very enjoyable wine.

Wine: Vieilles Vignes Syrah
Producer: Simon Maye & Fils
Grape: Syrah
Vintage: 2001
Notes: I think my nose and palate deceived me because my tasting notes are quite sparse after the first syrah. It had green notes, berries. It has less tannic than the first and I think suffered from reduction. Perhaps over the course of a few hours it would show better. I quite enjoyed tasting Syrah at the winery and in fact tasted the best Syrah I have ever tasted there.

Wine: Crystal Eyholzer Roter Eiswein
Producer: Chanton Kellerei
Grape:Eyholzer Roter
Vintage: 2008
Notes: One of the most unique wines I have ever tasted. Made from the Eyholzer Roter wine grape, an extremely rare grape with a unique DNA profile. Only .25 ha of it are produced by one producer. According to Wine Grapes, “ One ancient vine 150-250 years old, has been found near Visp, in the town of Stalden, and an even older one in the middle of the town of Sion, some 50 km from Visp.” Magnificent amber colour. Wild strawberries, freshly burnt sugar cane fields and molasses on the nose. Tastes confirms the nose. Strawberries, crème brûlée, opulent and sweet balanced by racy acidity that lingers. Long and intense finish. A superb wine.

Wine: Vin du Glacier
Producer: Bourgeoisie de Grimentz
Grape:n Rèze
Vintage: Solera 1886
Notes: Glacier wine production involves the transportation of finished wine up into the cooler, higher altitudes in the Val d’Annivers. The wine is produced using the solera system in which new wine is added to existing wine that is stored in larch barrels. The rèze grape was one of the most widespread varieties in the Valais before phylloxera in the late 19th century, today it grown on about 2 ha. A very interesting wine with marmalade and retsina notes, Madeira aromas and caramel. Briny on the palate. I would call this a meditation wine. It is profoundly unique and deserves a more romantic setting for consumption. 


Friday, November 7, 2014

Orange Wine for Beginners

Realizing that I am used to orange wine at this point, I take it for granted that many wine consumers are not and this may make approaching them intimidating. Two weeks ago,  I asked Antiqua Tours intern Anna to write a short post to introduce these spectacular wines to the general public.  She did a great job! 

The sublime orange wine from the Alaverdi Monastery in Kakheti, Republic of Georgia

When I was first introduced to orange wine, I had no idea what to expect – is it wine flavored with orange peel? Is it some kind of more complex alcoholic beverage made from fermented oranges? Or is it none of the above?

Turns out, it’s the latter. This trendy new wine phenomenon has nothing at all to do with citrus. Believe it or not, orange wine is made from the same white grapes that make traditional wine. Orange wine is, simply put, wine made from these white grapes, but produced and fermented like red. New to the world of wine as I am, however, I need more than the simple definition to gain an actual understanding of what orange wine is.

When making a traditional white wine, producers crush the grapes, immediately separating the juice from the skins before fermentation. When making a red wine, however, producers leave the grapes to macerate and ferment with their skins, a vital part of flavor development that contributes to the red wine’s color, texture, and bitterness.

The discarded skins from white grapes contain color pigments and tannins that detract from the light and bright flavor typical of white wine. However, although leaving the grapes in contact with their skins doesn’t produce the “typical” flavor, it produces something equally desirable: a smoky, spicy, acidic, and orange wine that pairs well with almost all savory dishes.

Although this wine trend may only recently be gaining popularity among modern wine enthusiasts, its roots can be traced back thousands of years to Armenia and Georgia. It’s how white wines used to be made, and it’s now experiencing a renaissance from wineries in northern Italy, Georgia, Croatia, Slovenia, and parts of France and California.

If you sip an orange wine with the expectation that it will be light like a white, you will be entirely thrown off. That is why some people initially dislike the stronger, more pungent taste. These wines may take some getting used to; but even I enjoyed the complex flavors I tasted in the orange wine Sarah introduced me to at Litro.

Orange wine is usually made in small quantities by small producers, so they don’t come cheap and cannot be picked up at your local supermarket. In researching online, I kept running into a few labels that reviewers frequently recommended – Gravner and Vodopivec from Italy, and Lagvinari from Georgia. If you can’t locate these, just find a natural wine bar and try a glass, served at cellar temperature, as a test run. If you try it with an open mind, I’m willing to bet that you will enjoy the indescribable flavors that explode from the smallest sip of orange wine. 

If you are interested in organizing a tasting of Orange Wine, please feel free to contact us.  

Thursday, October 23, 2014

Taste Georgia at the Digital Wine Communications Conference

The Digital Wine Communications Conference is an annual conference that will take place in Montreux, Switzerland this year.  This will be the third conference I will be attending and the second I will be participating as a panel member.  On October 31st, I will be representing Georgian wine and Taste Georgia while pouring wine made in qvevri at the Disrupt Wine Talks reception between 18:00 and 19:30.  

I will also be a panel member for a session called "Bloggers Without Blogs." We will be talking about the effectiveness of social media in non blog form in the wine community.  This session will start at 9:30 on November 1st.

If you are at the conference and want to learn more about Georgian wine and food, please come say hi and taste the wines we are presenting.  

Wednesday, October 15, 2014

Achieving the American Dream Through Winemaking: A Review of American Wine Story

Achieving the American Dream through Winemaking:
A Review of American Wine Story

By Anna Aguillard, Intern

Inspirational, energetic, and modern, the documentary film American Wine Story depicts a side of the wine industry that goes largely unnoticed and underestimated: small, upstart wineries created by the select few people courageous enough to sell their belongings and start making wine, from scratch.

Anchored by the story of the late Jimi Brooks of Brooks Winery in Oregon, the documentary follows dozens of other modern winemakers across America, focusing on their journey towards the art of winemaking – why they fell in love with it, and why they remain dedicated to their businesses, despite the impossibilities that they encounter.

Each winemaker’s journey begins with a “wine epiphany,” the precise moment a person discovers the magic that lies inside each bottle of wine. Grape Radio personnel Jay Selman steps in with a more distinct and humorous definition: he experienced his wine epiphany after tasting a 91 Flora Springs Reserve that “made love to his soul.”

Although each of the many American winemakers featured in the documentary discovered their passion for wine in a different way, they all describe the same instinctive feeling of being compelled towards the art of wine. Once they got “bit by the bug,” they were powerless against their dream.  

The film’s mood reflects this innovation, as fast-paced music and rapid, sweeping shots of flat American vineyards echo the energetic young winemakers, especially Jimi Brooks. Fresh out of college, Jimi abruptly packed up and left the United States to study wine in Europe. He returned with dreams of infusing bio-dynamics, ancient style, and against-the-grain production techniques to create a new, better wine. Part of the “young punk winemakers” of the late 90s and early 2000s, Jimi’s enthusiasm was mirrored by his contemporaries, who quit their day jobs after feeling the “stir” deep inside of themselves.

One word keeps reoccurring throughout each winemaker’s explanations for why he or she dropped everything to make wine: passion. Passion drives these once-accountants, electricians, producers, lawyers, and even pro-footballers, providing them with not only the capacity to dream, but the courage to act upon their dreams.

While the documentary does romanticize the wine industry in America, it does not attempt to hide the challenges that modern winemakers face. Mother Nature’s extreme conditions, excessive rain, and early freezes determine the vineyards’ successes and failures. Some years, vineyards do not produce even a single bottle of wine. Instead of focusing on the wineries’ disappointment, however, the documentary celebrates how each winemaker overcomes these challenges. Although there are ups and downs within the industry, there always remains promise.

The ups, down, and future promises of the wine industry are perfectly illustrated as the documentary again turns back to Jimi Brooks. Just as Jimi’s winery, Brooks Wine, was beginning to gain prominence in 2004, he fell victim to a massive heart attack. On September 4, 2004, Jimi left behind his young son, his sister, a promising winery, and a community of fellow winegrowers dedicated to continuing his legacy. His sister Janie determinedly decided that she would not give up what Jimi had begun.

The documentary convinces its audience that promise always prevails. With Jamie’s dedication, Jimi’s wine business grew exponentially, and his legacy has not been forgotten. His son Pascal, whose interview both opens and closes the documentary, is now the youngest wine-owner in America.

This film is about much more than just wine. It’s about the all-revered American Dream that working hard for something you truly love always pays off in time. The winemakers are not working for themselves, they working towards something to be achieved by their children, or their children’s’ children. They are working for the future.

The people in this documentary serve as examples of determination that can be applied to everyone, regardless of whether or not you have had a “wine epiphany” or not. They are people who have identified their passion and given all of their resources – mentally, physically, and emotionally – to pursuing their dreams.

After viewing this film, I understand so much more about what goes into something as simple as a $15.00 bottle of Riesling. A years worth of weather, centuries worth of geology, and generations of human imagination all culminate into the liquid form of the American Dream.

American Wine Story may inspire you to sell your possessions, quit your job, and start your own winery. Don’t say I didn’t warn you.

For more information, please visit the documentary’s website.

Friday, October 10, 2014

EurHop! Beer Festival, Rome’s own "Oktoberfest"

We asked our intern Anna Aguillard to write up a post on the Eurhop beer festival in Rome last weekend. 

It goes without saying, but I’ll say it anyway: Italy revolves around wine. The art of wine making – and it is truly an art – dates back to ancient times, and has become so engrained in Italian culture that entire cities have been formed on lands perfect for producing the alcoholic beverage.

I’m willing to bet that when you think Italy, you think wine. However, even the land of vino is not immune to the cultural phenomenon sweeping the globe: craft beer. Cue the second annual EurHop! Beer Festival, which took place this past weekend (October 3-5) at the Salone delle Fontane. Forget Oktoberfest; this is where the actual artisan beer can be found in Europe. The world-renowned craft beer pub, Ma Che Siete Venuti A Fa, joined with the publishing company Publiogovana Eventi to host 45 different craft breweries featuring over 300 brews from across the globe.

The festival lasted all weekend, and was opened until 3 a.m. on Friday and Saturday. Despite being quite a trek from the city center, Salone delle Fontane was the perfect venue for the festival. Impressively modern and colorfully lit, the building mirrored the contemporary crowd that craft beer events unfailingly attract.

Although crowds were slight during the daytime, when I went on Saturday night, the line was wrapped around the Salone’s courtyard. After waiting in line for a manageable half hour, I was allowed inside to purchase a ticket. For 10.00, I was given a commemorative EurHop glass, a guidebook, three beer tokens, and a lanyard with a pouch for storing the tokens.

The guidebook was extremely helpful, so much so that I saved it for future beer-buying reference. Organized alphabetically by brewery, it offered a detailed description of every beer served, its style, its alcohol content, and its price. Beers were available in two sizes: half or whole. Most breweries charged two tokens (equivalent to two euros) for half glasses, and four for whole, although a few of the more artisan brews went for three and six. “Half” was quite a relative term – most stations were generous in their portion sizes, and despite only ever ordering half, my glass frequently overflowed.

This event is perfect for the newfound yet devoted beer enthusiast. The virtually unlimited variety (unlimited because no human can possibly consume over 300 beers in one weekend) gives patrons a chance to try beers that they wouldn’t normally purchase, and to discover new favorites.

Following the representative’s recommendation, I decided to sample Cherry Lady,”sour ale” brewed by the Italian brewery Foglie d’Erba. And thus began my infatuation with “sour” brews: from porters to fruit ales, I highly recommend the Italian craft blends. Fruity and light, these beers were refreshing without the intoxicating sugar content that their liquor-counterparts hold. Cherry Lady is brewed from, as the name indicates, fermented cherries. I also enjoyed German Freigeist Bierkultur’s Salzspeicher Raspberry, brewed from fermented raspberries. The Piemonte-based brewery Loverbeer’s D’Uvabeer was by far my favorite, despite it’s slightly more expensive price of three tokens. Made from grapes, this beer was equally as fruity as the other sour brews, but significantly less light.

After sampling three fruity sour brews, I needed something with a more complex, bitter taste. The representative at Lombardia-based Birra del Convento Carrobiolo recommended Coffee Brett, an imperial stout brewed with roasted coffee. A deep black with dark beige foam, this brew was heavily aromatic and intensely flavorful.

The most unique brew in the building came from the Italian brewery, Toccalmatto. Infused with lemon, lime, chili peppers, and ginger, the Yellow Monster Imperial Radler travelled through a unique machine filled with lemons as it was poured into each glass to increase its exotic flavors.

These are just five among the endless selection of beers. While it may not be comparable to Germany’s Oktoberfest, Italy really is stepping up its craft beer game. Pay attention - if the country does beer as exceptionally well as it does wine, EurHop will certainly become engrained into Italian culture.

For more information about the event and a complete list of breweries, visit the event’s website at

Tuesday, September 16, 2014

Barolo Boys Review

I was given the opportunity to watch and review Barolo Boys before its release.  I decided to let Antiqua Tours intern Anna review it.  She is a newcomer to Italian wine and I thought it would be interesting to see the film through her eyes, as someone with no preconceived ideas or exceptions.  I really enjoyed what she wrote and hope you will too.

Barolo Boys: The Story of a Revolution

Review by Anna Aguillard, Intern

Wine, as ancient as its roots, unsurprisingly has a complex and dynamic history that is not easily traced, let alone clearly explained. However, Paolo Casalis and Tiziano Gaia’s upcoming documentary Barolo Boys attempts to do just that, as it traces the revolutionary story that lies behind the international phenomenon of Barolo.  I was lucky enough to get a sneak peak of the film.

As a newcomer to the Italian wine scene, I am still learning about the basics of the industry and its rich history.  The documentary does an excellent job of explaining a very intricate topic; and gives enough background information to clearly explain Barolo wine’s peculiar history without getting lost in technicalities.

Barolo Wine, made from the Nebbiolo grape in Northwestern Italy, is known today as one of the world’s greatest wines. However, it didn’t always have such international acclaim. The documentary invites its audience to “take a journey” to discover the story behind Barolo’s rise to fame, which it promises to be “full of surprises.”

Beautiful shots of the Northern Italian country side are captivating, as close-up shots of red grapes dripping with dew, scenic view of misty rolling vineyards, and picturesque ancient buildings set the scene of Langhe, where the Barolo Boys’ story begins (and makes me really want to plan a trip). The film begins by explaining what the wine business was like in Langhe for producers before the Barolo “revolution” in the 1980s. Through interviews with major wine producers such as Elio Altare, Chiara Boschis, Marco de Grazia, Giorgio Rivetti, and Roberto Voerzio, the documentary depicts the “pre-revolutionary” wine industry as being about survival – there was no profit, no investment, and no innovation. By using the voices of many different experts with so many unique stories, the filmmakers do an excellent job of capturing daily life for Barolo winemakers up until the revolution.

The film then addresses the factors that lead to Barolo’s popularity explosion, focusing on the particular historical context of the boom. It does a good job in attributing the innovation to the particularly positive international sentiment during the 1980s – consumerism was on the rise, the stock market was flourishing, Italy had just won the world cup – changes were welcomed, and the Barolo Boys were the ones to bring them.

After seeing how French wines were sold for more than twenty times the price of Italian wines, a small group of producers in Langhe got together (for the first time in history) and decided to “make the best wine in the world.” This group, called the Barolo Boys, changed numerous things about the way Barolo wine had been made for centuries.

As a new wine lover, I must admit that I found the film’s explanation of Barolo wine’s traditional production to be a little bit unclear – thankfully, all I had to do was Google it. For those who, like me, are unsure: In the past, Barolo wine took up to 50 years to become drinkable, and it aged in large, wooden casks.

 The film does an excellent job of capturing just how revolutionary the Barolo Boys’ changes were. They began thinning the grape vines, cutting fermentation times to just days, and aging the wine in barriques (small barrels) instead of large crates, creating a fruitier wine that appealed internationally. These changes, however popular in the market, angered the traditional Barolo producers, to the point that Altare’s father, “never stepped foot into the vineyard again.”

Despite the opposition, the film depicts the wine revolution as a very happy time for the producers in Langhe. I really enjoyed the original footage of the Barolo Boys’ meetings, during which they ran countless experiments and tastings in their pursuit of the best wine. Their hard work paid off – due to the help of Marco de Grazia, who marketed the wine in the American market- the Barolo boys rose to fame. The film humorously emphasizes their popularity with shots of the “Barolo Boys” soccer team doing drills through the vineyards, and barriques being rolled through the Italian streets. More money came into Langhe in ten years than it had in the entire last century, and in America, the wine grew to symbolize fashion, glamour, and luxury.

The film suggests, however, that Barolo’s golden age may be coming to an end. Pitting the innovators versus the traditionalists, the film delves into both sides of the Barolo Wars that typify the archetypical clash between old and new. Although the Barolo Boys are no longer working together, the film depicts a story of the courage to make drastic changes, and the backlash that all significant changes unavoidably receive. By leaving open the question, “who is the winner” in the war between traditionalism and innovation, the film suggests that the solution lies in some combination of old traditions and new techniques.

I recommend this film for all those interested in wine, in history, or in the Italian culture’s influence on the world. With interviews from Oscar Farinetti, the president of Eataly, and Carlo Petrini, the founder of Slow Food, the film offers a holistic view of a very interesting cultural phenomenon. Let’s face it – some of Italy’s most influential contributions to mankind have been through the wine it produces, and this film succeeds in giving the industry the attention it deserves. 

For more information and ordering information, please visit